Caravan-Serai Tours

Lebanon is a fascinating, complex little country (120 miles long by 30-35 miles wide). It is full of history and interesting sites --- magnificent ruins, the famous Cedars of Lebanon, modern cities and aged villages. There are long sandy beaches and high snow-capped mountains. It is the biblical ìland of milk and honeyî, lush with orange and olive groves, banana plantations, wild flowers and crystal-clear rivers gushing from hidden grottos.

Lebanon lies along the northern part of the eastern Mediterranean shore. It is about two-thirds the size of Connecticut, and is bordered on the north and east by Syria. It was once part of the Ottoman Satrap of Greater Syria. On the south it is bordered by Israel. The western border is the shoreline of the Mediterranean Sea. In the central part of the country, the Lebanon Mountains run from the north to the south. On the eastern side of these mountains is the broad Bekaa Valley, which is protected on the east by the Anti-Lebanon Mountains. The headwaters for the Litani River and the Orontes River, which flows into Syria, are in the Lebanon Mountains. The famous Mount Hermon (Jabal Al-Shaykh) lies on the southeast border.

Lebanon has been host to many religions and people of differing ethnic backgrounds throughout the ages. The first identifiable inhabitants were the Canaanites, a Semitic people who came to be known as the Phoenicians. These people were seafarers and traders who flourished in the second and early first millennia BC from the city-states at Tyre, Sidon, and Byblos. The Phoenicians founded settlements at Carthage, Marseilles, Palermo, Malta, and Sardinia. There is evidence that they sailed around Africa and may have gone as far as the North Atlantic, and Scandinavia.

The Persians, Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines followed the Phoenicians. By the 8th C. AD Islam had been spreading for 150 years, and the Islamic Caliphate came into power. In the 16th C. the Ottoman Turks came to power. They ruled successfully until the 19th C. when the French i nfluence gained prominence by the mid-1800s. During this time there was also an influx of Christian missionaries and the establishment of Western-style schools.

After the defeat of the Ottoman Turks in WWI, Britain and France signed the Sykes-Picot pact in May 1916, giving France control over Lebanon, which it occupied under a League of Nations Mandate. In 1920, the French set the borders of Greater Lebanon. In 1926, Lebanon became a republic, a constitution was created, and a president elected.

During WWII the pro-German Vichy government of France took control of all French overseas activities and territories, including Lebanon. In 1941 British and Free French forces overthrew the Vichy French, and Lebanon gained nominal independence. In 1946 it became officially independent and was a founding member of the league of Arab States.

Lebanese politics have always been a complex and multifaceted issue. Government representation and voting are based on the congressional system. Each of the major religions and sects are represented proportionally in the parliament. When the system was first put in place, the Christians had a slim majority, however the Muslim population is now about 75% of the total Lebanese population.

In the early 1960s, tensions were building between Christian and Muslim communities as economic disparity grew between the groups. Even by this time the Muslim population outnumbered the Christian population. Several factions began to battle for control. One group wanted Lebanon to rejoin Syria, another wanted an independent Christian state, and several outside forces became involved: the Palestinians, the Syrians, and the Israelis. The French and US military also eventually stepped into the fray.

From the early 1970s to 1990, Lebanon suffered from civil war and war with its neighbor to the south, Israel. The southern part of Lebanon has been occupied by Israel since 1928. This area was returned in 2000 when the Israelis pulled back from the border.

Lebanon is like a phoenix bird rising from its ashes. Massive construction projects are underway to restore the countryís infrastructure. Beirut is being transformed from a war-torn ruin of a city to a cosmopolitan business center of the Middle East, as it seeks to regain its former prominence in the world of trade and finance. The country is certainly proving its capacity for survival and overcoming adversity.

Weather
Lebanon enjoys a Mediterranean climate with mild, rainy winters and long warm summers. It almost never rains between June and October and visitors can count on 300 sunny days every year. In the summer the Lebanese like to escape the heat and humidity of the coast by going to the mountains. In winter, however, higher elevations can be cold and snow usually falls at elevations about 1000m.

What to wear?
In summer, light cotton clothing, a hat and sunglasses are essential. Visitors during winter months will require warm clothing as well as a waterproof wind jacket. While western style clothing is popular, particularly in Beirut, be aware that more conservative attitudes toward dress exist in the outlying areas. Both women and men should keep this in mind when choosing what they will wear for the day.

When visiting a mosque, women are required to cover their heads with a scarf, so bring a scarf that will stay on your head easily-silk scarves have a tendency to slip off without you even knowing it.

Business Hours
Government offices are open from 8:00AM-2:00PM, Mon.ñSat. and 8:00AM to 11:00AM on Fri., Banks: 8:00AM-12:30PM Mon.-Sat., Shops, 9:00AM-6:00PM Mon.-Sat., many are open later and on Sunday. Private Offices: 8:00AM-5:00PM Mon.-Fri.

Money
Many major credit cards are now accepted in most hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa, MasterCard, American Express and Dinerís Club International are recognized.

Movement of currency into and out of the country and all exchange transactions are completely free of any kind of control. Foreign currency can be exchanged at any bank or money exchange found in main business areas. Travelerís checks are widely accepted.

The monetary unit is the Lebanese Pound. The Lebanese have always been famous for their banking industry, of which strict banking secrecy is major feature. Currently, over 80 banks operate in the country and transactions are performed efficiently and at a low cost.

Photography
In some societies, people are uncomfortable being the subject of a touristís photographs. It may also be forbidden to take pictures of people (particularly women), buildings, museums, etc. In particular, refrain from photographing anything that may be associated with the military. Always ask your guide or host, or the intended subject if it is permissible to take a photograph.

Be sure to bring plenty of film as it can be hard to find, and expensive. Also, remember to bring spare batteries for your camera.

It is also fun to bring a few photos of family and home to show people. Be sensitive to the conservative attitudes of the people you will meet and avoid bringing pictures of couples openly showing affection, people in swimsuits, and women in revealing clothing. It may well not be an issue, but it is better to be safe and avoid an embarrassing moment for both you and your acquaintance.

If you bring a Video Camera, you need declare it on your passport upon arrival; otherwise you will end up paying taxes at customs upon your departure. Your tour representative can help you with this.

The food from Lebanon derives from subtly blended flavors of parsley, mint, cinnamon, allspice, yogurt, lemon, olive oil, bulgar wheat, tahini (ground sesame) seeds) eggplant, various beans, and rice. Lamb, goat, chicken, and fish are the main meats served. Breads of all kinds, shapes, sizes and flavors can be found in shops, restaurants, homes, and street vendors. (However it is recommended that you do not buy food from street vendors)

Baba ghanoush - char-grilled eggplant, tahina (ground sesame seeds), olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic puree, mixed together and served as a dip.
Baklava - a dessert of layered pastry filled with nuts and steeped in honey-lemon syrup, usually cut in a triangular or diamond shape.
Falafel - small deep-fried patties made of highly spiced ground chickpeas.
Fattoush - salad of toasted croutons, cucumbers, tomatoes and mint.
Foul (pr. Fool) - slow cooked combination of brown beans and red lentils dressed with lemon, olive oil and cumin.
Halva - sesame paste candy usually made in a slab and studded with fruit and nuts.
Hommus - puree of chickpeas, tahina, lemon, and garlic served as a dip.
Jebne - white cheese
Kamareddine - apricot nectar
Kunafi - similar to shredded wheat, stuffed with sweet white cheese or nuts and syrup.
Kibbeh - oval-shaped nuggets of ground lamb and bulgar wheat.
Kibbeh naye - raw kibbeh eaten like steak tartar.
Koshary - cooked dish of pasta, rice and lentils to which onions, chilies and tomato paste are added.
Kufta - fingers, balls or a flat cake of minced meat and spices that can be baked or charcoal-grilled on skewers.
Laban - tangy-tasting sour milk drink, widely used in cooking.
Labenah - thick creamy cheese often spiced and used as a dip.
Lahma bi Ajeen - Arabic pizza.
Loubia - green beans cooked in tomato sauce.
Maíamul - date or nut filled cookies shaped in a wooden mold called a tabi.
Muhalabiyyah - silky textured semolina pudding served cold.
Musakhan - chicken casserole with sumac (pr. sumah) a ground powder from the cashew family used as seasoning.
Sayyadiya - delicately spiced fish served on a bed of rice.
Tabbouleh - salad of bulgar, tomato, mint and parsley.

Visiting a Private Home
When visiting a private home, you might find the following routine:

Upon arriving you will be given something to drink, usually fruit juice or soda pop. This will eventually be followed by dinner and sweet tea afterward. After a little more visiting you will be served small cups of coffee. This is the signal that the evening has come to an end and it is time to go.

ANJAR: Anjar is the only remaining walled city built by the Umayyadís in Lebanon. Constructed at the foot of the Anti Lebanon Mountains, it has 600 shops suggesting that along with being a summer and pleasure resort for the caliph, it also served as a commercial center.

ANTI LEBANON MOUNTAINS: The mountain range on the eastern border with Syria. ("anti" meaning before Lebanon, from a Roman perspective)

BAALBEK (HELIOPOLIS): Today Baalbek is an arts center. Its July Arts Festival was world famous before the war when people from every continent came here to perform in music, visual arts, and theater. In 1997, the Festival was held for the first time in 20 years. In Roman times, this city was a religious center and itís many ancient buildings include the Temple to Jupiter with its six columns and cyclopean wall, the Bacchus Temple - the best preserved in the Middle East, and the beautiful small temple of Venus with its unique circular cella. The nearby quarry still holds large blocks that were cut for the Hajjar el Hubla.

BEIT-EDDINE: This is the best example of early 19th century Lebanese architecture. Beiteddine is a magnificent palace built over a period of thirty years by Emir Bechir el-Chahab II. The palace takes its name from Beiteddine (House of Faith), a Druze hermitage that is now part of the palace.

BEIRUT: The capital of Lebanon is much like the mythical Phoenix, the bird that rises from the ashes even more beautiful than before its destruction. The city is in the process of renovation, reconstruction, and reclaiming its identity as a trade and business center for the Middle East. Visitors can see modern office buildings next to archeological parks in the city center. Stroll along the corniche, or go shopping, dine in elegant restaurants famous for their local and world cuisine.
In the 1950s and 1960s Beirut was called the Paris of the East. Very modern and open, the city welcomed all. It was the financial capitol of the Middle East, and any major corporation that considered itself international had an office, or at least a representative in the city.

Beirut was also a center for the trade of intelligence, and all major media and intelligence agencies had representatives stationed here. The infamous Soviet spy Kim Philby was last seen there before defecting to Russia. He was posing as a reporter, even though he was in the employ of the British Intelligence service, but all the while giving information to the Soviets, who had an intense interest in the oil producing states of the Middle, East. Beirut was a natural location to find all of these elements together!

Beirutís golden age could not last forever. Just below the glittering surface of cosmopolitan Beirut, lay the tensions of economic disparity and religious conflict. The countryside was markedly unlike the polished and very European city of Beirut. On top of this, one of Lebanonís main attractions as a financial center was about to work against it. The banking and financial sectors were largely unregulated and unprotected by the government. In 1966 the collapse of a major bank signaled the coming disaster. This opened the floodgates to other financial woes, which cracked the thin veneer of Lebanese civil society.

Today, the cosmopolitan flair is back, and Beirut is again open for business in a big way.

BEKAA VALLEY: The Bekaa Valley forms the northern part of the Great Rift Valley extending through the Red Sea into East Africa. It divides the Lebanon Mountains from the Anti Lebanon Mountains, and is about 100 miles long and 6-16 miles wide. This valley is very fertile due to runoff from the mountains. The flat valley floor makes this area an agricultural breadbasket. There are many ancient ruins, particularly from the Roman occupation.

BYBLOS (JBEIL): Arguably the most important archaeological site in the world. Remains from prehistoric times to today indicate that this place has been continuously inhabited and never abandoned.

IHDEN: An excellent place to see the famous Cedars of Lebanon. Grouped at the foot of the Dahr el Kadib slope at about 2000m of altitude, these trees are among the finest and oldest specimens that covered Lebanon in biblical times. Two of them are reported to be up to 6000 years old. The youngest of them are a few centuries old. Antique, majestic and incorruptible - thatís why the cedar became the national emblem of Lebanon and figures in the national flag. It is reported that many of the ancient trees were cut down to build the pyramids.

JOUNIEH: Sprawling along the coast north of Beirut, this is the heart of Lebanonís beach resorts, restaurants, and shopping souks.

SIDON (SAIDA): Another coastal city, south of Beirut, that dates back several millennia. Surrounded by citrus and banana plantations, Sidon is a commercial center with a small town atmosphere.

TRIPOLI (TARABLOUS): Informally, Tripoli is the northern capital of Lebanon. The Crusaders built many edifices here such as St. Gille Castle, the oldest example of Frankish architecture in Lebanon. The Mamluks built here as well as the Ottomans. You may see their architectural styles in the Lion Tower, Taynal, Great Mosque, Bortassi Mosque and the Khan el Khayatten. All these buildings constitute an impressive grouping.

TYRE (SOUR): Tyre was originally a mainland settlement with an offshore island city. It was a powerful maritime center specializing in glass and a famous purple dye. Because of its wealth, it attracted many enemies, and the evidence exists today of many other powers that had occupied Tyre: Roman and Greek ruins abound. When Alexander the Great laid siege to the island city, he finally overwhelmed it and built a causeway to the mainland

ZAHLE (BEKAA): This city is nestled in the Bekaa Valley, the agricultural heart of Lebanon, and the northern end of the Great Rift Valley

Manís civilization dawned in the Middle East and three monotheistic religions emerged there. Following is a brief description of Judaism, Christianity and Islam as much as is needed to be observed by tourists.

Judaism: God revealed to Moses the 10 Commandments on Mount St. Cathrine in Sinai but he was not permitted to enter the Holy Land. King Solomon built the first temple which was destroyed by the Babylonians. The First and Second Jewish Temples were built on the mount, which now is occupied by the Dome of the Rock and the Agsa Mosgue. The Babylonians destroyed the Second Temple. Jews believe that the old retaining wall on the Mount, which is called the Western or Wailing Wall, is part of the Temple. Archaeologists have reconstructed a model of the Second Temple, which you might visit. Synagogues of the Jewish people can be found throughout Israel and Palestine. We know of no special protocols for visiting Jewish synagogues that you need to observe, however from Friday at sundown until Saturday at sundown the Sabbath, or day of rest, is observed, and visitors to Jewish houses of worship may not be welcome during that time.

A respect for all religions and the people practicing them is requested from people enjoying our tours. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask us.

Christianity: Jordan, Israel and Palestine are territories of Christianity. Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem, and the Jordan Valley are principal destinations. Approximately 5% of Palestinians and Jordanians are Christians. Churches can be found throughout all the countries in the area. Syria has many famous Christian churches, and you can even hear Aramaic, the language of Christ, spoken in Maíalula in Syria and by Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem. Since Christian protocol remains essentially the same in the Middle East as the United States, behavior rules are the same in both places.

Islam: For Muslims (Moslems), God revealed his eternal truths in Arabic through the Prophet Muhammad (Mohammed), 570-632AD, who lived in what is today Saudi Arabia. The revelations were collected as the Quíran (Koran). Muslims believe that the Prophet Muhammad was transported in a miraculous journey from Mecca (in modern Saudi Arabia) to Jerusalem to Heaven and then home. The Dome of the Rock commemorates the spot where he rose to Heaven and returned. After the Prophetís death, Islam was spread by his followers and eventually encompassed an area from Bosnia to southern Russia, east to China, and south to the Philippines, and west via North Africa to Spain. We therefore can find mosques (houses of worship) throughout the world as well throughout the Middle East. Many Christian churches have been converted into mosques. Some prominent examples are in Aya Sofia in Istanbul, and the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus.

When visiting a mosque, be prepared to leave your shoes with the doorkeeper. It is not necessary to tip him. Women wear a scarf to cover the hair when entering a mosque. Black and white scarves are common, but any subdued color may be used. Prayers may be in session and quiet respect is expected. Hearing the prayers chanted could be a thrilling experience. Muslims pray five times a day and they wash before praying but this is not required of visitors.

Islam follows a lunar calendar of 12 months a year, which is shorter than the solar year by eleven days. The holiest month is Ramadan (pr. Ra-ma-dan), strict Moslems fast during the hours between daybreak and sunset, and eat between sunset and daybreak. During the fast, Muslims abstain from eating, drinking, and smoking during daylight hours. Breaking the fast at the end of the day is an important event. Visitors are not expected to observe the fast, bu in consideration for those who do, please refrain from smoking or eating during the hours of the fast in public during Ramadan. You may plan to eat in hotels and restaurants as desired.

For many people in the world, there's no such thing as a Universal Product Code or price tag. The merchant sizes up the buyer, the b uyer sizes up the merchant and each tries to obtain the best price.

Many Westerners dislike bargaining in foreign countries, and see it as a waste of time or, worse yet, an opportunity to be swindled. However, bargaining can be pleasant -- even fun -- if you understand the "rules."

In most places where there is bargaining, there are strategies employed on both sides that are understood to be simply that: Strategies. Each side jockeys for advantage. And while there are few strategies that hold true the world over, here are some suggestions to try on your trip:

1. Before going shopping, ask a local person how much you should pay for a particular item. This primarily applies to food or household items that residents might buy frequently. Or talk to your concierge if you're interested in a specific high-ticket item. Even armed with this knowledge, however, expects to pay a little above the locals' price -- it's often a matter of pride to get a better-than-average price from a tourist.
2. Offer much lower than you really want to pay. How much lower depends upon where you are and what you're buying. Generally speaking, offering a quarter to a third of the price quoted for souvenirs in most developing countries is a good start, but there are exceptions. If, for instance, you were buying a rug in Morocco, you would be foolish to offer more than a tenth the asking price (or to pay more than a fifth).
3. Be polite. This is where many tourists make a mistake. Insulting the seller by saying,: "Your prices are outrageous," or "Don't try to cheat me!" won't get you very far, and reinforces negative stereotypes about Westerners.
4. It's much better, in fact to humble yourself. Pick up an item you're interested in. "You like?" the merchant asks. "Yes, it's very nice." "How much you pay?" "Oh, I could never afford such an item." "Please tell me your price." "I'm afraid I'd insult you if I told you what I could pay. I can't pay what it's worth." "Go ahead, tell me how much you pay." Then you name a ridiculously low price. The merchant will counter with a price that's higher than what you said, but much lower than he might quote to other tourists. You can slowly raise your price, and he can slowly lower his; you've set yourself up well. Americans negotiate 50-50 by splitting the asking price, but this is not the rule in developing countries where less than 50% of the asking price can be obtained. Try to figure out a reasonable wholesale price and add a reasonable profit for the seller.
5. Don't denigrate the merchandise. Conventional wisdom says to point out flaws or defects to get a lower price. In practice, this is a rather transparent tactic, and the fact that you're bargaining for the item at all is a pretty good indication that you consider the defect minor. If there is a flaw you can live with, the better strategy is to bargain your best price without mentioning the flaw. Then, just before you're ready to hand over the money, you "notice" it. Say that you're sorry, but you don't want it with the flaw, and start to put it back. The price will almost always come down a little further to get you to take it. (Note: This won't work if there are similar items that are in good condition.)
6. Give the merchant excuses to lower his price. Say you can't afford the "normal" price because you're a student, youíre newly married, or recently divorced. You have 10 children. You must support your elderly parents. You just lost your job. You just started your job.
7. Good cop, bad cop. If you and your companion spot something you want, one of you should say, in front of the merchant, "Look at this! Isn't it great?" The other should look at it with disdain, say "Put it back," and walk on. The merchant will approach the one who showed interest and encourage him or her to buy. Then, no matter what price is quoted, the answer should be, "Gee, for something that much, I'd have to ask my wife (husband)." The price will keep dropping every time you make a move to get the other spouse involved.
8. Have a friend do the bargaining. Merchants can tell when you're truly hooked on an item, and will have no incentive to go lower after they've seen that gleam in your eye. But find a friend who is truly disinterested, give him a set limit to spend and wait somewhere out of sight. The friend should tell the merchant he is buying for someone else, and at a certain point in the bargaining, should tell the merchant that he simply has no authority to go above that price. There is little a merchant can say other than "yes" or "no." He can't move your offer.
9. Walk away - even out the door. Sellers may chase you down the street!

The language of Lebanon is Arabic. Classical Arabic is used in all official correspondence, newspapers, and TV news; however, it is rarely spoken ìon the streetî. Colloquial (local dialect) Arabic is the spoken language and varies from country to country. For example, in North Africa other languages, such as Berber and French, influence it. In Egypt, the accent and pronunciation is changed. Therefore, spoken communication can be difficult between people from different countries. In Lebanon, French and English are widely understood.

Arabic is read from right to left. We list below some common expressions in Arabic spoken in the Levant (Lebanon, Syria, Palestine, Jordan). Words are gendered, having different endings for ìmaleî and ìfemaleî.

ah-len wa sah-len: formal greeting
marhaba: hello
ma sa-laa-ma: good-bye ("Go in Peace")
sa-bah al hair: good morning
sa-bah-an-noor: good morning - response
kee-fik: how are you (feminine)
kee-fak: how are you (masculine)
nam: yes
la: no
shu-kran: thank you
af-wan: youíre welcome
wain___?: where is_____?
wain ha-mmam?: where is the bathroom?
kit-eer gha-li: t oo expensive
ah-roo-h he-nak___: I want to go___
dok-tor: doctor
bi kam? How much?

Numbers:
1. wa-hid
2. ith-nain
3. tha-la-tha
4. ar-baa
5. kham-sa
6. sit-tah
7. sa-ba-ah
8. tha-man-i-ah
9. tis-sah
10. ah-sha-ra

Arab Music is a unique form of music heard in Arab countries from the Gulf to the Meghreb. Traditional or Classic Arab music is performed by acoustic instruments. In recent years electric instruments which can produce quartertones have been introduced.

Arab music scales are not chromatic like the major and minor scales used in occidental music. It is the quartertone, which makes this music so unique and expandable. Because of this quality, Arab music has a variety of scales unfamiliar to the Western ear. These scales represent a mode, a human emotion, or a feeling. Some are suitable for morning listening, some for late night. These scales are called Maqaams (positions). Some of the common Maqaams are Hijaz, Bayaat, Saba, Siga and Kurd, and most Arabic songs utilize several Maqaam to express the various emotions introduced in the poetry of each song.

The historic origin of this music is extremely heterogeneous. Early Arab musicians borrowed from the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Sumerians. Many of the instruments now used are direct descendents of those that appeared in wall paintings and carvings of those civilizations. Greek music theory was translated into Arabic in the 8th and 9th centuries as the science of music became one of the courses of the quadrivium, and was studied by most students of the period.

Seven treatises of music theory appeared under the name of Al-Kindi (d. 874) and three have survived in print. After Al-Kindi there was a gap of about a century in documentation. Following Al-Kindi, the great theorist Al-Farabi published his book Al-Kitaab Al-Kabeer which included immense and detailed information on music and music instruments of that era. Being a good mathematician and physicist, Al-Farabi was able to handle the physical bases of sounds by making valuable contributions to physiological acoustics, i.e. the sensation of tone, which is part of Greek music theory.

OUD, al-ëOud (meaning "wood") is a highly ornate instrument made of wood with six double strings, pear-shaped body and non-fretted neck. It is plucked with an eagle feather or a pick. The ëOud originated in Ancient Egypt and was later adopted by the Persians, who brought it to the Arabian Peninsula. The great Iraqi musician, Zeriab, introduced the 'Oud to Spain and later to Europe when he sought refuge in Andalusia.

QANOUN: al-Qanoun (meaning "rule", "law") is a descendant of the old Egyptian Harp. The form of the Qanoun is a trapezoid-shaped flat board over which 81 strings are stretched in groups of three, with 24 treble chords consisting of three chords to each note with movable frets called ëUrab. The Qanoun is placed flat on the knees of the musician: the strings are plucked with the finger or with two plectra, one plectrum attached to the forefinger of each hand plucking separate octaves.

NAY: A Persian word used to describe a single reed pipe. It is one of the oldest instruments in the Middle East. The Nay has 6 holes in the front for the fingers to play, and 1 hole underneath for the thumb. Fine, mellow tones are produced by blowing gently through the orifice of the tube while manipulating the fingers and thumbs: the force of blowing scales (Maqaams) generates octaves by utilizing Nays of various lengths.

MIJWIZ: (means dual) is a type of double reed clarinet played by breathing gently through a circular aperture and by manipulating the fingers over the holes down the front of the tube. The sound it produces may reflect a musical dialogue between two moods

DAF: also known as the Rikk, which corresponds to the English tambourine. It consists of a round frame covered on one side by goat or fish skin, with pairs of metal discs set into the frame that jingle when the hand strikes it. The sounds of this percussion instrument set the rhythm of Arab music.

TABLAH /Darbouka: is also a percussion instrument; made of clay or metal with goat or fish skin stretched over its larger opening. It is placed on the leg; beaten with both hands yielding different sounds: whe n beaten near the edge it produces sounds like (tic), or near the middle the sound is more like (dom), establishing several rhythmic scales to accompany the meter of sounds produced by accompanied instruments.

Tradition dictates that if you admire an item belonging to another person in an Arab country, it will be automatically given to you. Now technically, you may say, ìThat necklace on you is lovely,î but not, ìWhat a lovely necklace that is.î The inference is that you admire someoneís taste as a pleasant object, but not admire it because you want such a thing. Please remember to try not, either directly or indirectly, to give an Arab person cause to think you would like any of their possessions, including jewelry, clothing, souvenirs, etc. This can result in cultural misunderstanding and embarrassment. This can also cause you to be the recipient of an article that you really may not want! Please be very careful of this traditional practice in this culture. Thank you.

When traveling in a foreign country, you are subject to the laws of that country. In most countries of the world it is illegal to deal in drugs. If you are caught in possession of illegal drugs, you will be arrested. Drug dealing, particularly in the Arab world, is a very serious offense and the penalties are severe. Foreign jails are not pleasant places ñ most require that you supply your own food and necessities.

Do not rely on our consular corps to bail you out. They are there for diplomatic purposes, and some help. They do not loan money or buy tickets. In most cases they will only be able to visit you in jail to verify that you are not being treated inhumanely, receive due process of the local law, and pass messages to family.

It is reported that AIDS is widespread throughout the world. We urge you to take all precautions in this regard.

Removing antiquities from most countries is not allowed any longer. Do not rely on the advice of the seller of antiquities. If you plan to buy antiquities, check with proper authorities.

We would like you to abide by the laws of the countries we visit and have a fun time while you are there.